Paolo Griffa: eating pastry, a moment of joy and surprise
Beating 3,200 other under-30s hopefuls, Paolo Griffa was voted Italy’s S. Pellegrino Young Chef of 2015, his winning dish being Tripe and Foie Gras.
Fresh from his victory at national level, Paolo Griffa, sous-chef to Marco Sacco at the two-star Piccolo Lago restaurant in Verbania, on Lake Maggiore, is preparing to take part in the international finals of the San Pellegrino Young Chef competition, where he will face contestants from twenty other countries. The finals take place in June, so during Expo Milano 2015.
What was your winning recipe for the Italian leg of the San Pellegrino Young Chef 2015 contest?
Tripe and Foie Gras. This dish represents who I am, and bespeaks my background and training. The base is a traditional Italian dish, tripe cooked with carrots, as taught to me by my grandmother. On the side is the foie gras, seasoned with lots of spices, such as wasabi, ginger, yuzu, and Sichuan pepper. These ingredients I learned about during my time in Japan.
You beat no fewer than 3,200 young Italian chefs. Why do you think your dish proved to be the jury’s favorite?
Because it conjures a very particular taste experience. Tripe has a very delicate flavor. With the addition of carrots, this becomes more rounded. Served warm, it confers a velvety, soft sensation. Foie gras is, by definition, a full-fat experience. Served just a little less than ice-cold, on a cold stone, and given a twist, with ginger and the other spices that clean the palate, it gives a vibrant, light buzz.
In your opinion, what is the most creative Italian dish?
Davide Scabin’s Cyber Egg. I love it because the dish is presented as a clear, spherical shell. It’s odorless, and the contents cannot be identified. One sits back, stunned. Then, pricking the shell, using a scalpel, the taste is an explosion of egg yolk, vodka, and caviar. This is cuisine surprise.
Who, on the international scene, inspires you?
Ferran Adrià because he revolutionized the world of cooking, and how ingredients can be used. There’s just no-one quite like him. Then there’s Yoshihiro Narisawa, a two-star Michelin chef in Tokyo. His style derives from many years of studying fermentation and raw materials, which he applies to dishes that are natural, bursting with energy and vitality. One of my favorites of his is Duck and Blood, where, using beetroot juice, he pays tribute to the life of the animal that has been given us.
What’s your favorite ingredient?
Butter, true comfort food. I still love my childhood favorite, which belongs firmly in the Italian tradition: buttered bread, with sugar sprinkled on top.
What’s the first pavilion you plan to visit at Expo Milano 2015?
Most probably the Italian Pavilion, or Padiglione Italia, because I am always curious to learn more about my country, and find out everything it has to offer.
Source: expo2015.org
